Exploring Bhutan: A Journey Through the Dragon Kingdom

From the moment you arrive into the airspace of Bhutan alone the excitement builds for landing as you weave your way around and through the hills and mountains surrounding Paro – clocking the monasteries on top of the hills to guide the pilot down onto the runway. If you are lucky enough on the flight in (from Bangkok) you might be blessed with a sighting of the beast that is Mount Everest itself peeping through the clouds surrounding its neck. Only two airlines serve Bhutan and as a result there are very limited pilots that are trained to fly this route. Landing can often be precarious and you are warned of heavy turbulence as we descended lower and lower to the ground. My journey took several attempts and a short stop at an airport about a half hour away however as the low lying cloud in the valley was making visibility very poor. After 3 attempts it was confirmed that we would sit and wait elsewhere for the clouds to break up and allow us a safe landing.

Mount bloody Everest from the plane window

Travelling to Bhutan is anything but cheap but that is because it’s serious about high value and low impact of any tourism. There are a number of things that you have to pay for and provide evidence of before your visa is even granted. It is well known for its SDF (sustainable development fee) rules which is charged at flat rate of $200 a day and mandatory makes it alone a costly adventure before you have even left home as it needs paying up front! The SDF is a way that visitors help to support Bhutan’s ongoing development and sustainability projects. Collected by the national exchequer, the funds that are raised through the SDF are allocated to various projects that enhance facilities, services and infrastructure for Bhutanese nationals and visitors, as well as funding free healthcare, education and upskilling the tourism sector. The funds also contribute to the preservation of the nation’s rich heritage and pristine landscapes, by funding conservation, preservation and other sustainable initiatives that support the attainment of UN Sustainable Development Goals. You cannot travel independently anywhere in the country you have to be guided and driven around, stay in government authorised hotels and home stays. On top of this you have your daily tour cost which varies according to the itinerary and activity and what level of accommodation you are after. But it does mean that it covers – accommodation, transport, guide and food.

Visas are granted only after full payment of the SDF, evidence of your travel insurance for the duration of your stay and of course a copy of your passport. Of course I didn’t sort any of this on my own – I left this all down to the company that I travelled with.

Remember this country really only opened up to the rest of the world in the 70s and ever since there has been a determined effort to keep its national identity and sovereignty in tact. In fact it’s only had a monarchy since 1907 when the Wangchuck family established itself as the monarchy. Prior to that there were a number of regions all with their own languages and spiritual beliefs that were independent of each other. The current King of Bhutan is only the 5th King of the Kingdom of Bhutan.

But what drew me to come here? Why has it been on my vision board to turn into a reality? Initially it was a video or picture I saw years ago of the dancers at one of the country’s festivals all in vibrant colours and with a mask on. Then I read a little about the current Royal Family and I saw pictures of them all in their traditional dress. It’s a country that you can’t just rock up at and do your own thing so everything is sacred to them. The population is only 800,000 also. I also find so much calm and warmth in learning about the practices, beliefs and teachings of Buddha that visiting another Buddhist country fascinates me.

Usually I’d have just used Explore! Who I’m a frequent traveler with. But I was on Instagram, following a lot of posts and accounts linked to Bhutan to wet my appetite for travelling and also to find out a little more about the festivals as they offered two and I wasn’t sure which one I wanted to go to. Suddenly I find I have a travel company slide into my DMs – @FoundBhutan:

First interaction on Instagram with FoundBhutan

The rest I think we can say is history. I asked a few questions, specifically which was the BEST festival to go to? & it wasn’t one Explore! were offering. I chatted and interacted with their posts for about 2 months I think when I then thought – sod it, you only live once! And I booked – 2 weeks personalised itinerary NOT excessive trekking more about people culture and beliefs of this fascinating country. I was continually asked was I not worried about being on my own? Was I not worried about not using a UK company? Was I not worried you might not enjoy it when you get there? No, No aaaaaaaaand NO. I’d felt connected to the company as I met with more of them through emails to complete the booking and sorting my Visa, SDF & paying!! Then I never stopped messaging and reacting to almost every post on their instagram feed, to the extent that I honestly felt like I already knew them when I arrived.

The airport in Paro is tiny as you can imagine but even in descending the plane to take the short walk to the terminal building the architectural influence is already apparent, as are the images of the current Royal Family.

The terminal building at Paro airport
The current Royal Family of Bhutan

The exterior was one thing, but as soon as you enter the building the architectural style continues in what has to be the most photographed immigration hall! Apart from the fact that frankly, photography at this stage of any usual international travel into most countries is banned, you can’t stop but get the phone out to capture your first introduction into the style of Bhutan! Already wow-ed at immigration – this is going to be an amazing experience!

The interior of Immigration Hall.

After all the hellishly long time of travelling I was grateful to see my BRIGHT YELLOW suitcase come round the belt in the baggage reclaim & wowed again just at that!

Baggage reclaim belt

Waiting the other side were Noko – yes from my initial contact – and Pee2 (I’ll need to be reminded why he is called that as I’ve also forgotten his real name) who had already sent me a photo of them at the airport as they – poor things had had a SUPER early start as I was due in at 0730 but finally came through around 1015. We greeted like long lost friends which was super lovely and reassuring. So grateful to be here after the HELLISH year I’ve had in my own mental health & nervous breakdown, coming to the brink again twice since on top of trying to support and care from afar for the parents.

Noko on the left and Pee2 on the right

And if I wasn’t already certain enough that I’d made a fantastic choice in deciding to travel with Found Bhutan – LOOK what awaited me when I got into the car 🥰

I mean I was tired and have been longing for this day to come – won’t lie I might have had ‘something in my eye’. This, I could already tell was going to be one holiday that frankly is going to trump ALL the others. Full of giggles, funtimes & memories as well as an amazing introduction to the country that is The Dragon Kingdom.

Bring it on!!

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